Frequently asked questions

Nanotoa converts the abstract pile of accounts (401k, IRA, brokerage, home equity, savings) into a single, concrete number which is the annual paycheck you'll live on in retirement.

Just type naturally, like you would talk to a person. For example, you can say "Add my 401k from Fidelity" or "How much do I have in defined contribution accounts?" and Nanotoa will understand and respond.

You can track 401(k)s, IRAs, Roth IRAs, pensions, social security, investments, and other retirement assets and liabilities. Nanotoa supports all major asset groups to give you a complete picture of your retirement readiness.

Nanotoa builds a complete picture of your assets and uses that to forecast your retirement readiness. Once your ledger is built, you can see how your savings compare to where you need to be based on your age and goals.

Nanotoa helps you organize and understand what you have — something most people struggle with before they even talk to an advisor. We are not a replacement for professional financial advice, but we give you the clarity and confidence to make better decisions, whether on your own or with an advisor.

Frequently asked questions were one of the awesome things of the early; when people were helping people out, making common and hard things easier to understand at a glance. In a modern internet with business models built around extraction and ensh**ification, we are hoping that customers actually find our product useful rather than some compulsive casino of clicks and scrolling.

Building your asset and debit ledger is free. Upload spreadsheets and organize everything. You also get 5 free questions to ask Vera about your retirement picture. After that, it's $9.99/mo or $99/yr.

Yes. Invite your spouse or partner to the account from the profile page.

Households save independently (defined contributions) but retire together. Some crazy statistics: (1) 54% of US households have money in defined contribution plans (401ks) or IRAs. (2) 49.6% of US households both spouses were employed.

So what does this mean? 401ks and IRAs are legally individual, tied to your employer, and invisible to your partner. Nanotoa is built around the household because that is how people retire.

Yes. Your data is encrypted and stored securely. We use industry-standard authentication and never share your information with third parties.

No. We never sell your data or share it with third parties. Your financial information is yours. Nanotoa makes money through subscriptions, not by monetizing your data.

Simple answer: if you're not paying for the product, you are the product. Advertising and financial services have a history of being dodgy, exploitive and fraudulent.

A 401(k) is a retirement savings account offered through your employer that lets you contribute a portion of your paycheck before taxes are taken out. Many employers match part of what you contribute, which is essentially free money toward your retirement. Your contributions grow tax-deferred, meaning you don't pay taxes on the money or its earnings until you withdraw it in retirement. Like IRAs, 401(k)s have annual contribution limits set by the IRS, and withdrawing early (before age 59½) usually triggers taxes and a penalty.

The 401(k) plan is defined in subsection 401(k) of the Internal Revenue Code (IRC), which is codified in statute as Title 26 of the United States Code.

A 401(k) is a retirement account you get through your employer which often matches part of what you put in. An IRA (Individual Retirement Account) is one you open on your own. Both grow tax-advantaged, but they have different contribution limits and rules.

An IRA (Individual Retirement Account) is a personal savings account you open on your own to invest for retirement, with tax advantages to help your money grow. There are two main types: a Traditional IRA, where you typically contribute pre-tax money and pay taxes when you withdraw in retirement, and a Roth IRA, where you contribute after-tax money and qualified withdrawals are tax-free. The IRS sets annual limits on how much you can contribute.

Almost anyone with earned income (like wages from a job or self-employment) can open an IRA, and you can have one even if you also have a 401(k) at work. There's no age limit to contribute as long as you have earned income. Roth IRAs have additional income limits, so high earners may be limited or unable to contribute directly. A spousal IRA can also let a non-working spouse contribute based on the working spouse's income.

The main difference is when you pay taxes. With a Traditional IRA, you usually contribute pre-tax money and get a tax break now, but you pay taxes when you withdraw in retirement. With a Roth IRA, you contribute money you've already paid taxes on, so qualified withdrawals in retirement are tax-free. A rough rule of thumb: choose Traditional if you expect to be in a lower tax bracket in retirement, and Roth if you expect to be in the same or higher bracket. Roth IRAs also have income limits that can restrict who is eligible to contribute.

A 401(k) rollover is the process of moving the money from a 401(k) account at a former employer into another retirement account, typically an IRA or your new employer's 401(k) plan. When done correctly, the money keeps its tax-advantaged status and you owe no taxes or penalties on the transfer.

You generally have four options: roll the money into an IRA, roll it into your new employer's 401(k) plan (if allowed), leave it in your old employer's plan (if the balance is large enough), or cash it out. Cashing out usually triggers income taxes plus a 10% early withdrawal penalty if you're under 59½, so it's rarely the best choice.

In a direct rollover, the money moves straight from your old plan to the new account without you ever touching it. In an indirect rollover, the old plan sends a check to you, and you have 60 days to deposit it into the new account. Indirect rollovers are riskier: your old plan withholds 20% for taxes, and you must come up with that amount out-of-pocket to roll over the full balance. Direct rollovers are almost always the better choice.

Most rollovers complete in 2 to 4 weeks, though it can take longer depending on your old plan's processing times. The process typically involves opening the receiving account, requesting the distribution from your old plan, waiting for the check or wire transfer, and confirming the funds have been invested in the new account.

Yes, and this is a direct, tax-free move. Your contributions and earnings transfer to the Roth IRA where they continue to grow tax-free. One bonus: rolling to a Roth IRA eliminates the required minimum distributions that Roth 401(k)s used to require during the original owner's lifetime.

Yes, but this is called a Roth conversion and it's a taxable event. The amount you convert gets added to your income for the year and taxed at your ordinary income rate. It can be a good move if you expect to be in a higher tax bracket later or want tax-free growth, but the upfront tax bill can be significant.

Yes, if you do an indirect rollover, you have 60 days from receiving the funds to deposit them into the new account. Miss the deadline and the entire amount becomes a taxable distribution, plus a 10% penalty if you're under 59½. Direct rollovers have no such deadline since you never receive the money personally.

When you leave your job, any outstanding 401(k) loan typically becomes due. If you can't repay it, the unpaid balance is treated as a taxable distribution and may trigger a 10% penalty if you're under 59½. You generally have until the tax filing deadline (including extensions) of the year you left to repay the loan or roll the equivalent amount into an IRA to avoid the tax hit.

You can roll each one into the same IRA, consolidating your retirement savings into a single account. This makes it easier to manage your investments, track your balance, and plan withdrawals. There's no limit on how many rollovers you can do as long as they're direct rollovers.

Most people don't. When you sell the home you live in, the IRS lets you exclude a big chunk of the profit from capital-gains tax: up to $250,000 if you're single, or $500,000 if you're married filing jointly. Only the gain above that exclusion is potentially taxable, so if you're single and your home sells for $200,000 more than it cost you, the whole gain is covered and you owe nothing. This is an educational estimate of the gain that could be taxed, not the tax you'd owe and not tax advice. Confirm the details with a tax professional before you sell.

It's a tax break Congress wrote for people selling the home they actually live in, found in Section 121 of the tax code. A single filer can exclude up to $250,000 of gain from capital-gains tax, and a married couple filing jointly can exclude up to $500,000. To qualify, you generally have to have owned the home and lived in it as your main home for at least two of the five years before you sell. It's meant for your primary residence, not a rental or a vacation house.

Your gain isn't simply the sale price minus what you paid. You start with your cost basis: the purchase price plus the money you spent on capital improvements over the years. Subtract that, along with your selling costs like the real-estate commission, from the sale price, and what's left is your gain. Then subtract the exclusion ($250,000 single or $500,000 married). Whatever remains above the exclusion is the gain that could be subject to capital-gains tax. For most sellers that number is zero.

Cost basis is what your home cost you for tax purposes. It starts as the price you paid, then grows every time you make a capital improvement. When you sell, your gain is the sale price minus your cost basis and selling costs. The higher your basis, the lower your gain, which is exactly why tracking improvements over the years is worth the effort.

A capital improvement is something that adds value to your home or extends its life: a new roof, a kitchen remodel, an addition, new windows, a finished basement, or central air. These add to your cost basis, which lowers your taxable gain. Routine repairs and maintenance, like repainting a room or fixing a leak, generally don't count. The line between the two isn't always obvious, so when in doubt, keep the receipt and ask a tax professional.

Because every documented improvement raises your cost basis, and a higher basis means a smaller taxable gain when you sell. The catch is that a sale might come 20 or 30 years after you put in that new kitchen, and the IRS expects you to be able to prove what you spent. A shoebox of faded receipts is easy to lose. Nanotoa lets you attach a receipt (a PDF, a photo, or a saved email) to each improvement on your home's ledger entry, so the paper trail is there when it actually matters.

It can change the picture a lot. A home is usually someone's largest asset, but it's illiquid: you can't spend a spare bedroom. Selling converts that equity into money you can invest or live on, and if you move somewhere with a lower cost of living, your savings stretch further. It also clears the mortgage off your balance sheet. Nanotoa keeps your home, your mortgage, and the rest of your accounts in one ledger, so you can see what selling would actually do to your retirement income before you make the move.